Working Lid and Road Test

Here's a look at the lid in operation. I found a company called International Gas Springs who build custom struts. You fill out a worksheet with dimensions and desired operation and they make the size and strength you need to open the lid, keep it open, and close it easily. We'll see how that goes, hope they aren't too expensive. Here is another option at McMaster Carr

I took the trailer out for a highway test yesterday since it was warm and dry out. I got up to 70mph and there was no signs of swerving, fishtailing, or tracking problems. I was concerned the spare tire might add unbalanced load to the tail of the trailer. So far so good.

Lid Frame Finished

Here's a look at the finished lid frame. All that's left to do is order 22 gauge plate steel cut to size and weld it onto the frame to make the skin. Its really coming along well!

Electrical Box

Today I welded on a lockable latch. But to keep the lid from rattling when on the trail, I welded a rubber strap to the lid, and stretched it over a L-shaped knob I welded onto the front of the box. Then I used caulk to seal all of the inside joints in the box to help keep it water tight.

License Plate Mount

The back end of the trailer is almost entirely taken up by the spare tire and tail lights. I didn't want to mount the plate hanging off the bottom of the frame since it would likely be ripped off four wheeling. So, I fabricated a mounting bracket that is welded to the spare tire mounting plate. Its small enough to allow the hub-hole in the wheel to slip over it and onto the studs.

Lid Handle

I found a stainless steel boat cleat which normally is used to tie off ropes for a good price at Harbor Freight tools. I thought it would make a nice sturdy handle. So, I welded in some veriticle supports spaced to match the bolt holes in the cleat.

Hinges & Latches

I bought some heavy duty hinges at Home Depot and welded the pin in place to prevent someone from breaking by pulling the pins out. I decided to bolt the hinges to aid in replacement if they are ever damaged, and to allow the lid to be removed if I need to use the trailer to haul something large with the lid off. The hinge bolts to the 1.5" square tube that I welded below the tub's lip.

It took quite a bit of searching to find the right type of latches on the internet. I got them at Nielsen Sessions. They are smaller than I was thinking, but they will do the job. I wanted them to be stainless steel, lockable, adjustable, and a draw-latch. Making them adjustable ensures a tight fit so you don't have to drill your mounting holes perfectly. Plus, once I add a weather strip around the lid I'll have to re-adjust the latches to make them work. The bottom of the latches bolt to the 1.5" square tube I welded under the tub lip on the driver's side of the trailer.




UPDATE: I had to reverse the latches putting the catch on the top (lid) instead of the tub. When you tried to close the lid, there were three latches dangling which hit the lip of the tub and caused it not to close all the way. With three latches you don't have enough hands to simultaneously pull them out from the tub to allow it to seat properly. Flipping them around keeps the body of the latch on the tub rather than the lid, so when they dangle, they don't get in the way of the lid closing.

Hi Lift Jack

I added some vertical supports using 1" square tube in the box lid spaced to accommodate the Hi Lift 4x4 mounting brackets. The jack is on the hinged side of the lid, which reduces the dead weight you have to lift when you open the top. Once I skin the lid, I'll redrill the holes to remount the brackets.